Tuesday, September 09, 2008

BrookLEn in Paris: Spring

How many brilliant American artists have conducted court in France, impressing the Gauls, binging on the excesses of Paris, impatiently waiting for the sound of the soiree to reverberate on our shores? The city attracts the talented who are happy to receive the one-glove applause of the French. I discovered a new member of this ex-pat clan at Spring, a restaurant in the 9th arrondissement operated by Daniel Rose, a native of Chicago.

Before arriving, we got lost in the neighborhood, discovering an amazing cheese shop where we picked up some foie gras for 1000yregg (which has its own story). Like Spring, the 9th is mixed culturally, a spicy bouillabaisse in the city of gastronomy. When we arrived at the tiny restaurant, we were literally eye-level with chef Daniel's prep table, which he conducted like a stage. The ten-top room filled quickly (only one seating, around 9-ish). This is where things get fuzzy, as we were offered amazing wines, and I was not the punctual blogger that I should be. What I can do is describe this five-course experience.

The courses were all prepped and plated for the room, each layer of the dish having it's own moment of consideration. The second course, a red snapper, started out as julienned radishes in a lime dressing. Eventually, the radish slaw was placed on the snapper, and then an impressively light beef broth was poured around the deep serving dish. Surprising, subtle flavors, some Chicago, some Paris, and a complete delight.

Other highlights were a duck served three ways (braised, moussed, and tartar), and a dessert of berries in an angelic peach-mint broth. After sending around the last plate, the chef grabbed a bottle of his favorite whiskey and started chatting with the diners. Some he knew, others became friends quickly, and carried out the post-meal festivities until hours not meant for our country.

28 rue de la Tour d'Auvergne
75009 Paris
+33 (0)1 45 96 05 72

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